PETG has poor mechanical properties. It’s largest problem is with impact resistance. If you bend or feel a PETG part, it appears ductile and you would think impact resistant. However, under sharp impact, PETG shatters and has very poor impact resistance. PETG does have better temperature resistance then PLA+, but it’s not enough to make […]
Because of the drawbacks being greater then the advantages. However, I don’t know of all the clamp types. So if you see a uncommon clamp that you think will work, let me know! If it’s a common type, I’ve probably already checked it out. Before you can find a better solution, you have to find
Great question, also one without a direct answer. Why? Because the settings you use depend on the part you are slicing, the filament, and the printer you are using. It’s also not that complicated. Copying someone else’s settings may appear easy, but won’t teach you anything, and when you need to slice a new part,
ABS and ASA have similar mechanical properties, though ASA is more stable and generally better. I do not use these plastics when printing firearms parts because of there poor mechanical properties. The tensile strength tends to be low, and layer adhesion can be very poor without a heated chamber. ABS / ASA does have the
Yes. 300 AAC Blackout does not place additional stress on the lower over 5.56 x 45. In fact, your gas system and buffer mass are much larger factors in how much stress is placed on the lower receiver. A heavy buffer with a lot of gas on a 5.56 gun will place more stress on
Nozzle temps and bed temps depend on the filament you are using, your printer, and even the type of part you are thinking. I normally set the nozzle temp in the middle or higher end of the manufactures recommended temp. Higher temps are not always better. Your bed temp should also follow the manufactures recommendations
0.4 MM is the standard that most models are designed for. 0.6 MM will also work in many cases, but check the documentation to see if it’s compatible. 0.25 MM nozzle are great for fine detail on some parts, but are not needed unless specifically specified.
Short answer, no. Long answer, it won’t hurt until you need to replace or remove the ejector. On my AR-9 designs the ejector is 3D printed, it presses into a pocket on the lower. This may be concerning to some users, as it appears to only be a friction fit holding the part in. However,
I use the E3D NozzleX. Brass Nozzles will work great with non abrasive filaments, but I highly recommend a hardened nozzle if you are going to print any filled materials. Stay away from low quality off brands if you can, a bad nozzle will insure a bad print.
LR-308 uppers are not as simple as AR-15 uppers. There are a number of standards. My LR-308 Super Lowers are designed to use the LR-308 / DPMS standard. Unfortunately, not all companies properly name their uppers, so care is needed. Bear Creek Arsenal, Aero Precising, and KAK all make LR-308 uppers that will work with